Taiwan - Taroko Gorge

60mins of climbing, and the suspension bridge at the trailhead looks like a miniature Lego model

Can you see the crumbling trail?

Walking in the steps of history at Taroko Gorge (Hualien, Taiwan) is not for the faint hearted. There was no mention of the narrow trail, crumbling slopes and tough terrain when our host merrily waved us off that morning. Or was that communicated by the fleeting moment of his furrowed brow?

After 5 exciting hours, I am intimately acquainted with the steep inclines and enthusiastic mosquitoes of the Wenshan-Lushui trail (綠水文山步道), and give it my whole-hearted recommendation. Who knew that such beauty and adventure existed just steps away from the tourist hoards?

The trail is part of the Old Cross-Hehuan Mountain Road, first carved by the Truku tribes living in the area, then used by the Japanese police to monitor the tribesmen. The most famous section is the Zhuilu trail, for which we were unable to get a permit. Hence we found ourselves on the Wenshan-Lushui section, for which registration at the Wenshan police post will suffice.

Directions: Head north of the Wenshan hotsprings, up the road and through the tunnel. Look for an opening on the right that accesses a large suspension bridge across the gorge. Follow the sign-posted trail towards Lushui /Lyushui. The trail winds up and down the forested cliffs, past abandoned villages, suspension bridges and impressive views of the gorge and valleys. The trail is best done as a one-way jaunt from Wenshan to Lushui. Turn right at the fork where red flags block the trail at Lushui to emerge at the mountaineering center. There is a good toilet at the end, and a cafe across the road where you will find bus loads of Korean tourists enjoying mango ice cream. Ignore their curious stares at your disheveled state, and treat yourself to a well-deserved ice cream or ice tea.

Accommodation: We were well taken care of at Taroko by our hosts Jin and Rihang at the Taroko Lodge. They provide basic accommodation, transport to and from Xincheng railway station, and many exciting activities. Email rihangsu AT gmail.com

Success at the top of the ridge!