Next, we set off on the canoe, with a large piece of chicken skin, to look for Pedro. Pedro is an alligator that the guides seem to know and love. Apparently Pedro likes to lurk in a particular spot in the mangrove. Unfortunately, Pedro was either not at home, or not receiving visitors, because he didn't respond to our repeated ringing of his doorbell. (ie Calling his name loudly, banging the side of the boat, waving chicken skin in the air and water)
We returned to camp, slightly dejected. And oh what a wonderful surprise, there was a large alligator lurking near the camp! The guide demonstrated how to bait the gator by holding the chicken skin near its nostrils, then pulling away as it snapped forward. It was completely insane, and would have violated about three million safety laws in America. By some miracle, everyone who tried it survived without injuries.
Nothing else that day came close to that level of excitement, not even the prospect of going back to town and doing laundry.
I have mixed feelings about the pampas tour. It was incredible to be there, motoring down river: the banks teeming with interesting flora and fauna, random fish jumping into the boat, hearing the occasional PPFFTTT from a dolphin's blowhole. I was very excited to see the animals, but I'm pretty sure that the animals were not happy to see us. And I dunno whether our guide going to great lengths to get us closer to the animals is something all the jungle people do anyways, or if it's to cater to us tourists-- in hope of a bigger tip.
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The following morning, we flew back to La Paz. The flight was very smooth, and we were only delayed for 3 hours this time =). To combat the altitude, we were armed with a large bag of coca leaves. Chewing the leaves is a local remedy for the altitude.
We had an afternoon to kill in La Paz before our 7pm bus to Uyuni, so we decided to walk to the famous Voodoo market, and central plaza. On the way to the market, the main street was lined with makeshift stalls (like the pasar malams in S'pore), selling a bewildering variety of sundry goods, as well as Christmas essentials (fruitcake, flashing lights, plastic Mary/Joseph/Jesus, plastic mangers and farm animals).
The Voodoo market is famous because you can buy tribal medicine, including dried llama foetuses (bury in front of your new home to ensure good luck). There are also many stalls selling the usual tourist souvenirs.
Not much else to say about La Paz. The central plaza was a typical S.American Plaza: nice colonial buildings, fountain in the middle, many people and pigeons. La Paz traffic was pretty bad, and the streets are narrow and hilly. But it had a certain charm, a certain je ne sais quoi... maybe it's the road-crossing monitors dressed as zebras??
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